How
to
Batik
A Newcastle Arts Centre Guide
Batik - a brief
introduction
It is thought that the word batik
has been derived from the word ‘ambatik’ which
translates as
‘cloth with little dots’. It is a method of
applying designs onto material. This is carried out
by
waxing the parts that are to remain without dye. Batik is
based on the principle that water and
wax repel.
Examples of batik can be traced
back over 1,500 years to Egypt and the Middle East.
Samples have also been found from previous centuries in
India, Japan, Turkey and China.
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List of
Equipment
Material
– Fabric
should be made from natural fibres such as
cotton, linen, muslin or silk. For intricate
designs it is important that the fabric has a
high thread count. Synthetic fibres are not
suitable as they cannot hold dye
sufficiently.
Frames
– These can be bought or made depending on
size and adjustability. It is possible to use
stretcher bars or old picture frames; however,
softwood is preferred as it enables the fabric
to be pinned. To reduce the risk of tears to
silks and finer fabrics it is possible to use
masking tape to secure the material to the
frame.
Wax
– This is available in a number of forms
such as blocks, flakes or grains. A beginner is
advised that paraffin wax is the easiest to use,
however, beeswax offers less opportunity for
cracking. Specialist batik wax is a mixture of
both paraffin and beeswax.
Electric
Wax Pot –
This is the most efficient and effective way of
heating and melting wax as it is
thermostatically controlled.
Brushes
– Varied sizes of cheap oil brushes are
advised for use with wax. Stiff bristles prove
beneficial when pushing the wax into the surface
of the material. Brushes made from natural or
synthetic fibres are also required in the dying
process. It is important to remember that after
use the brushes containing wax cannot be reused
for paint or dye.
Tjantings
– Traditional batik tools used to draw
precise lines of wax onto the material. These
are available in a range of sizes which allow a
small amount of wax to flow from the
reservoir.
An electrically heated Tjanting is now available
in the form of a modified soldering
iron.
A Dye
Bath – Any
suitable container which will allow the batik to
be kept flat when submerged can be
used.
Cold
Water Dyes –
A range of coloured dyes in powder form and
appropriate fixing agent recommended by the
products manufacturer.
A
selection of soft pencils
Masking
tape, Dress making pins, Drawing pins, large
saucepan, metal bucket (large enough for batik
to be immersed), plastic buckets, wooden tongs,
cleaning solvents, plastic pegs, teaspoons, jam
jars, greaseproof paper, tracing paper, tissue,
rubber gloves, apron, newspaper.
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Buy your materials
instore at Newcastle Arts Centre or online at
details-express.co.uk.
Colour
Pre-planning is important when
considering the colours used in batik. It is often easier
to use colours
which are related as the overlapping of each colour
affects the previous. The lightest colour should be
dyed first then the rest according to shade. Dark colours
cannot be made lighter.
Many factors can affect the final
appearance of the colour. The proportion of dye used may
determine
the strength of the final colour. When wet the tone of
the colour will appear darker than the tone when
dry. This will also occur during the boiling
process.
The materials used will also affect
the concentration of the colour. It is important to test
first.
A Step by Step Guide
to Batik
Preparing the fabric and
the frame
1.First wash the selected material
to remove any remaining size (do not boil
silk).
2.When dry cut the material to your
preferred size leaving 5 – 10 cm for overlapping on
the frame.
3.Make preliminary sketches for
your design. These can be drawn or traced using a soft
blunt pencil.
This can be done before or after framing. Pencil marks
will be removed in the boiling out process.
4.Stretch the material as taut as
possible over the edges of the frame. The fabric can be
secured
using dress making pins, drawing pins or masking tape
depending on the thickness of the material.
It is important that the fabric is stretched as taut as
possible; this will allow the wax to be applied
evenly.
Begin to pin the material from the middle on opposite
sides of the frame pushing outwards,
stretching as you go.
Creating Your
Design
Trace your design onto the material
using a soft blunt pencil. This can be done by placing
the design
under the frame and holding it up to the light or placing
it over a light box. Alternatively draw the
design directly onto the fabric.
Waxing
1.Follow the instructions provided
by the manufacturer of the wax pot. Heat the wax until it
has a watery
consistency. You can check that the wax is at the right
temperature by testing it on a small area.
If the wax is transparent it has penetrated the surface,
if it is opaque it hasn’t.
2. First wax the areas that are to
remain white using brushes or tjantings. Use newspaper to
prevent
any drips from the pot occurring on other areas. If using
tjantings it is important that they stay in the wax
pot until needed. Fill the reservoir with enough wax to
run from the spout. Do not over-fill. If you are
covering a large area use the appropriate size brush
ensuring that the wax is pushed into the fibres of
the fabric.
3.When the area is covered with wax
ensure that the surface has been penetrated by turning
over the
frame and checking the back of the batik. It is possible
to re wax the surface underneath the batik to
provide extra security in the dying process.
4.Mistakes with wax are not easy to
remove; however, it is not impossible. To remove a bad
area
scrape off the wax on both sides of the batik using a
knife. Soak a teaspoon in boiling water and then
use it to gently rub over the surface of the damaged
area. Repeat this process until it is removed.
The fabric must be free of wax before the dye will
penetrate the surface.
Dyeing
1.Mix the dye with the fixative.
Use the information supplied by the manufacturer to help
with this.
2.Pour the dye into the dye
bath.
3.Remove the batik from the
frame.
4.Immerse the batik into the dye
bath. Ensure that the fabric is flat as the wax may
crack.
5.When the dye has penetrated the
fabric remove the batik from the bath. Repeat process if
the colour
is not as strong as desired. Do not fold the fabric as
dye will collect in the cracks. It is also possible
to
paint on the dyes using brushes.
Use newspaper to prevent spillages on other areas and
blotting paper to remove excess dye.
6.Hang the batik up to dry using
plastic pegs. It is possible to use a hair dryer to
assist the drying
process, however, be aware that the wax may melt. Leave
the batik to dry overnight.
Boiling Out
1.Remove as much wax as possible
from the batik using a knife or a scraper.
2.Using a metal bucket or saucepan
and wooden tongs immerse the batik into boiling water for
three
minutes. This helps to remove the wax and set the dye.
Ensure that the fabric is fully covered using
the wooden tongs to push it down.
3.Using a second bucket of cold
water immerse the batik for a further minute to solidify
the wax.
Repeat this process if the batik is
heavily waxed.
4.Boil the batik in water with
detergent to remove all remaining traces of
wax.
To apply other colours to the batik
spread wax over the previously dyed areas.
Carry out the process until you reach the desired design.
Enjoy!
