Batik - a brief introduction

It is thought that the word batik has been derived from the word ‘ambatik’ which translates as
‘cloth with little dots’. It is a method of applying designs onto material. This is carried out by
waxing the parts that are to remain without dye. Batik is based on the principle that water and
wax repel.

Examples of batik can be traced back over 1,500 years to Egypt and the Middle East.
Samples have also been found from previous centuries in India, Japan, Turkey and China.

List of Equipment Material – Fabric should be made from natural fibres such as cotton, linen, muslin or silk. For intricate designs it is important that the fabric has a high thread count. Synthetic fibres are not suitable as they cannot hold dye sufficiently. Frames – These can be bought or made depending on size and adjustability. It is possible to use stretcher bars or old picture frames; however, softwood is preferred as it enables the fabric to be pinned. To reduce the risk of tears to silks and finer fabrics it is possible to use masking tape to secure the material to the frame. Wax – This is available in a number of forms such as blocks, flakes or grains. A beginner is advised that paraffin wax is the easiest to use, however, beeswax offers less opportunity for cracking. Specialist batik wax is a mixture of both paraffin and beeswax. Electric Wax Pot – This is the most efficient and effective way of heating and melting wax as it is thermostatically controlled. Brushes – Varied sizes of cheap oil brushes are advised for use with wax. Stiff bristles prove beneficial when pushing the wax into the surface of the material. Brushes made from natural or synthetic fibres are also required in the dying process. It is important to remember that after use the brushes containing wax cannot be reused for paint or dye. Tjantings – Traditional batik tools used to draw precise lines of wax onto the material. These are available in a range of sizes which allow a small amount of wax to flow from the reservoir. An electrically heated Tjanting is now available in the form of a modified soldering iron. A Dye Bath – Any suitable container which will allow the batik to be kept flat when submerged can be used. Cold Water Dyes – A range of coloured dyes in powder form and appropriate fixing agent recommended by the products manufacturer. A selection of soft pencils Masking tape, Dress making pins, Drawing pins, large saucepan, metal bucket (large enough for batik to be immersed), plastic buckets, wooden tongs, cleaning solvents, plastic pegs, teaspoons, jam jars, greaseproof paper, tracing paper, tissue, rubber gloves, apron, newspaper.

Colour

Pre-planning is important when considering the colours used in batik. It is often easier to use colours
which are related as the overlapping of each colour affects the previous. The lightest colour should be
dyed first then the rest according to shade. Dark colours cannot be made lighter.

Many factors can affect the final appearance of the colour. The proportion of dye used may determine
the strength of the final colour. When wet the tone of the colour will appear darker than the tone when
dry. This will also occur during the boiling process.

The materials used will also affect the concentration of the colour. It is important to test first.

A Step by Step Guide to Batik

Preparing the fabric and the frame

1.First wash the selected material to remove any remaining size (do not boil silk).

2.When dry cut the material to your preferred size leaving 5 – 10 cm for overlapping on the frame.

3.Make preliminary sketches for your design. These can be drawn or traced using a soft blunt pencil.
This can be done before or after framing. Pencil marks will be removed in the boiling out process.

4.Stretch the material as taut as possible over the edges of the frame. The fabric can be secured
using dress making pins, drawing pins or masking tape depending on the thickness of the material.
It is important that the fabric is stretched as taut as possible; this will allow the wax to be applied evenly.
Begin to pin the material from the middle on opposite sides of the frame pushing outwards,
stretching as you go.

Creating Your Design

Trace your design onto the material using a soft blunt pencil. This can be done by placing the design
under the frame and holding it up to the light or placing it over a light box. Alternatively draw the
design directly onto the fabric.

Waxing

1.Follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the wax pot. Heat the wax until it has a watery
consistency. You can check that the wax is at the right temperature by testing it on a small area.
If the wax is transparent it has penetrated the surface, if it is opaque it hasn’t.

2. First wax the areas that are to remain white using brushes or tjantings. Use newspaper to prevent
any drips from the pot occurring on other areas. If using tjantings it is important that they stay in the wax
pot until needed. Fill the reservoir with enough wax to run from the spout. Do not over-fill. If you are
covering a large area use the appropriate size brush ensuring that the wax is pushed into the fibres of
the fabric.

3.When the area is covered with wax ensure that the surface has been penetrated by turning over the
frame and checking the back of the batik. It is possible to re wax the surface underneath the batik to
provide extra security in the dying process.

4.Mistakes with wax are not easy to remove; however, it is not impossible. To remove a bad area
scrape off the wax on both sides of the batik using a knife. Soak a teaspoon in boiling water and then
use it to gently rub over the surface of the damaged area. Repeat this process until it is removed.
The fabric must be free of wax before the dye will penetrate the surface.

Dyeing

1.Mix the dye with the fixative. Use the information supplied by the manufacturer to help with this.

2.Pour the dye into the dye bath.

3.Remove the batik from the frame.

4.Immerse the batik into the dye bath. Ensure that the fabric is flat as the wax may crack.

5.When the dye has penetrated the fabric remove the batik from the bath. Repeat process if the colour
is not as strong as desired. Do not fold the fabric as dye will collect in the cracks. It is also possible to

paint on the dyes using brushes. Use newspaper to prevent spillages on other areas and
blotting paper to remove excess dye.

6.Hang the batik up to dry using plastic pegs. It is possible to use a hair dryer to assist the drying
process, however, be aware that the wax may melt. Leave the batik to dry overnight.

Boiling Out

1.Remove as much wax as possible from the batik using a knife or a scraper.

2.Using a metal bucket or saucepan and wooden tongs immerse the batik into boiling water for three
minutes. This helps to remove the wax and set the dye. Ensure that the fabric is fully covered using
the wooden tongs to push it down.

3.Using a second bucket of cold water immerse the batik for a further minute to solidify the wax.

Repeat this process if the batik is heavily waxed.

4.Boil the batik in water with detergent to remove all remaining traces of wax.

To apply other colours to the batik spread wax over the previously dyed areas.
Carry out the process until you reach the desired design. Enjoy!

Newcastle Arts Centre, © May 2006